SSD shopping

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Hi chaps, me AGAIN :D

So, as some might know, after a whole load of documented problems all over the place, ive a new system (more or less) and a dying HDD, of which, i was advised a while back to get an SSD purely for the OS, and for speed - and to keep my data on HDDS. My question is, what is the minimum size require for an OS? Also, what SSD makes or sizes are a good choice?

I really have no experience with SSDs. (other than small media players?)

Any info would be much appreciated, thanks in advance.
 
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I asked that size question myself a few weeks back. Looking it up again the consensus seemed to be you'd need around 50 gig HDD for the O/S.
You might get by with a bit less but that was the figure bandied about.

SSD prices skyrocket with size from what I've seen so probably around a 60 Gig drive might be all you want to pay out for.

From what I've been reading in PC mags buying a SSD is still a bit of a hit and miss deal. Some brands tested well on their previous model and not so good on the current offerings, other brands had a good model in one size but their other sizes not so good.
Th Intel X25-M & Kingston SSDNOW V+ Series tested well in July this year.

SSD use either Single-Level Cell (SLC) or Multi-Level Cell (MLC). SLC technology is supposed to be faster with a longer life but more expensive for a given capacity.
MLC dirves are less costly but slower and with a (relatively) shorter life.

It seems to be a given at the moment that you cannot expect the same life out of a SSD as you would from a quality conventional drive.

You need to find a SSD that supports TRIM which enables the drive to erase leftover data and helps keep the performance up.
The other thing to look for in a SSD drive is the type of controller it uses. Word is that Sandforce and Indilinx are the ones to go for.

The Intel drive I mentioned earlier dropped back to an overall 6/10 in August testing from it's 5 star rating in July. The Kingston is a 7/10 but noted was poor performance for price. Top scoring drive in July was a Patriot Inferno which scored 9/10 in August test but it was noted the previous models showed poor reliability.

My opinion FWIW is to hold off a bit longer on getting a SSD and instead get a SATA 3 conventional drive or something like a WD Velociraptor.
 
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I agree with Mychael. When I finally choose a drive, 40GB or larger will be what I decide on.

Until the prices of SSD's drop down to about 1GB per dollar level, I am happy with the performance of a 15GB per dollar mechanical drive.
 

Nibiru2012

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Hi chaps, me AGAIN :D

So, as some might know, after a whole load of documented problems all over the place, ive a new system (more or less) and a dying HDD, of which, i was advised a while back to get an SSD purely for the OS, and for speed - and to keep my data on HDDS. My question is, what is the minimum size require for an OS? Also, what SSD makes or sizes are a good choice?

I really have no experience with SSDs. (other than small media players?)

Any info would be much appreciated, thanks in advance.

If you want to get a really good KICKA** SSD check out this Mushkin Calisto Deluxe 60GB SSD. Newegg has it for $159.00 with Free Shipping! It's specs are superb! The 60 GB is more than adequate for your OS and other programs.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226151

Performance Max Shock Resistance 1500G
Max Vibration Resistance 20G Peak, 10-20kHz, 3 axis
Sequential Access - Read up to 285MB/s
Sequential Access - Write up to 275MB/s
MTBF 2,000,000 hours
Manufacturer Warranty: Parts 3 years limited, Labor 3 years limited
It uses the Sandforce SF-1200 controller. It also has 50,000 IOPS !!

Just remember to enable the AHCI in your BIOS to activate the NCQ for the SSD. A clean install is a must for an SSD drive too.
 

Nibiru2012

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@ C_C
Until the prices of SSD's drop down to about 1GB per dollar level, I am happy with the performance of a 15GB per dollar mechanical drive.
I think full UFO disclosure will happen before you see that pricing! LOL! :eek:
 
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If you want to get a really good KICKA** SSD check out this Mushkin Calisto Deluxe 60GB SSD. Newegg has it for $159.00 with Free Shipping! It's specs are superb! The 60 GB is more than adequate for your OS and other programs.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226151

Performance Max Shock Resistance 1500G
Max Vibration Resistance 20G Peak, 10-20kHz, 3 axis
Sequential Access - Read up to 285MB/s
Sequential Access - Write up to 275MB/s
MTBF 2,000,000 hours
Manufacturer Warranty: Parts 3 years limited, Labor 3 years limited
It uses the Sandforce SF-1200 controller. It also has 50,000 IOPS !!

Just remember to enable the AHCI in your BIOS to activate the NCQ for the SSD. A clean install is a must for an SSD drive too.
unfortunately, as much as i love newegg for their ridiculous pricing, they dont ship internationally.
 
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On your advice mychael, ive just bought a 300gb velociraptor. will eagerly await its arrival, and then go though the whole process of reinstall everything again. and probably phoning up microsoft to sort out my activation...again.

thanks to you guys for the help :D
 
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You should be happy with the Velociraptor. I've been using them and intend to get them again. They perform very well. Not the quietest of drives but very fast and reliable.
Make sure you have good case ventilation as they do run a bit warmer then some drives.
 
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On your advice mychael, ive just bought a 300gb velociraptor. will eagerly await its arrival, and then go though the whole process of reinstall everything again. and probably phoning up microsoft to sort out my activation...again.

thanks to you guys for the help :D
No need for that. Use Clonezilla to make a 1:1 copy from the old drive to the new. Set the new drive as the first boot device in bios. Easy, done.
 
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Just remember to enable the AHCI in your BIOS to activate the NCQ for the SSD. A clean install is a must for an SSD drive too.
Ah, yeah. I don't particularly agree with the word "must", but I'd say this is actually very solid advice.

I retract my last post. heh heh
 
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Article from Techspot, only time will tell if it comes true. :)

NAND flash expected to return to $1 per GB this year

Market research firm iSuppli is projecting that NAND flash memory prices will drop to the $1 per gigabyte mark in the fourth quarter, this is after two years of inflated prices that have decelerated the adoption of solid state drives.

The analysts estimate that 1GB of 3-bit per cell (TLC) NAND flash memory will fall to $1.20 during the fourth quarter and possibly down to $1 by the end of the year. This contrasts with prices during 2009 that started at an average of 90 cents per gigabyte and continued to rise until hitting a peak in Q4 at over $2 per gigabyte.
 
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No need for that. Use Clonezilla to make a 1:1 copy from the old drive to the new. Set the new drive as the first boot device in bios. Easy, done.

this sounds ridiculously easy? surely it cant be THAT easy to mirror them? OS and all?
 
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this sounds ridiculously easy? surely it cant be THAT easy to mirror them? OS and all?
Yes, that easy. :)

You'll be wanting to enable AHCI mode. So you can clone, boot to Windows (on new drive), edit the registry so AHCI works, then shutdown.

Boot to bios, change the mode to AHCI and then boot to Windows.

----

Here is how to edit the registry before the shutdown and bios change:

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/922976
 
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Yes, that easy. :)

You'll be wanting to enable AHCI mode. So you can clone, boot to Windows (on new drive), edit the registry so AHCI works, then shutdown.

Boot to bios, change the mode to AHCI and then boot to Windows.

----

Here is how to edit the registry before the shutdown and bios change:

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/922976

thanks for all the info, am downloading clonezilla now. is there any chance you can give me a really cut down runthrough please? just like

bios change > clonezilla burnt on disc > boot > follow what instructions/do what

be much appreciated :D
 
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1) Boot to Clonezilla.

2) Use it to clone to the new drive.

3) Set bios so that the new drive is the first boot device. Save.

4) Boot to Windows.

5) Edit the registry as shown above.

6) Reboot to the bios. Set the SATA mode to AHCI.

7) Boot to Windows and enjoy.
 
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followed the instructions but it didnt work, am trying out a few different configurations now.

the problem occured right at the end, so BIOS is set to AHCI and the new HDD is mirrored to the old one. but i'm typing this on the old HDD as the new one wont boot. ive also had to repair startup when reattaching this old one, and im at a loss as to whats gone on, with either drive.
 
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It should have worked well for you. It's a tried and true method.

You say, "The problem occured"

Can you please be more descriptive? What happened that didn't allow Windows to boot? Was there any bsod?

---------

You can run without AHCI enabled, of course. It's not necessary but it is recommended, as long as the new hdd itself has NCQ support.
 
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Well since i dont have the back knowledge to understand why i needed to do what i did, im not sure what you need to know specifically.

basically, i finished all the steps above, so it IS a perfect mirror, at least, i have booted into the old drive now and can view the new one a la slave. its exactly the same size and contains the same folders etc. the only thing i cant check is wether an OS is on there.

booting with AHCI enabled renders BOTH drives unable to start - after bios and before splash is MEANT to appear, the screen stays black with a white flashing _ and will stay like that till i boot up again change bios back to IDE. booting with the NEW drive as #1 in IDE also results in this odd "hang".

that said, booting any setting with the new drive is impossible. it would seem, that despite being able to set the new drive as #1 and successfully booting before, it still has no capability to do it without the old drive attached.
 
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It sounds to me like you cloned a partition instead of the entire hdd. That's because of this:

"it still has no capability to do it without the old drive attached."

That means that the new drive doesn't have the system partition which contains the files necessary to boot. It works because the boot files are still on the original drive. Your bios went on to look for it there because the first boot device didn't have it.

Try the process from the start, again. When using Clonezilla, be sure to specify the full hard drive instead of only a partition.

Make sure all usb flash memory sticks are removed, if any.
 
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