problem burning CD-R discs

[catilley1092]

On my notebook that runs 7 Home Basic, as well as two older Windows OS's, I have a problem burning or writing to CD-R or DVD-R discs. I don't know if it can read them, because I haven't burned anything to read with them. Normally, I use CD & DVD+R discs, but these (100 pack of each) were only $12.99 each, and even if it's -R discs, it will still run on my desktop.

Is there a burning software that may help me? Preferably a free one, as this notebook is old, and just a folding and testing one.

If it is of any help, the name of the burner is:

"TSST Corp DVD +-RW TS-L632D ATA Device", as reported by Speccy.

Funny thing, in the description of the device, it says "+-" as part of the name.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Cat

 

[Nibiru2012]

Cat - first of all your burner is made by the Toshiba Samsung Storage Corporation partnership, that's where the "TSST" comes from. My burner is a Samsung and has the same prefix.

You might want to check and see if a firmware update will help the burner's reliability. Use the VSO tool listed below to check the firmware version and there's even a handy little "Check for Firmware Update" button on the GUI.

The + - is designating that it can burn both DVD+R and DVD-R discs. DVD+R is the newer of the two formats. So if possible, stick with that format. The DVD-R is the old original format and is compatible with older DVD home players from the late '90's and '00's

CDs are only CD-R format.

Spending $12.99 for a 100ct. pack of CDs or DVDs is NOT a good idea. These are probably generic disks or private labeled. STAY AWAY from cheap CDs and DVDs because all you'll get is problems burning them plus their longevity is much less than name brand discs.

I use only JVC (formerly Taiyo Yuden), Verbatim, Phillips or Falcon. Memorex and TDK are good brands too. Using cheap house brands or private label is not worth the money saved.

100ct. packs of DVDs, single-layer should run around $30-35 for high quality discs, regardless of whether they're DVD-R or DVD+R. 100ct. packs of CD-R should run about $20. These are prices for the silver side discs not the printable type.

Use this free handy application called: VSO Inspector v2.1.0.4 It will tell you tons of info about your burner, its firmware, the original CD or DVD disc manufacturer, etc.

Download load it at: http://vso-inspector.software.informer.com/

VSO-Inspector is a great asset for reporting different information pertaining to the hardware configuration of a system. The application can figure out and list the CD/DVD readers and writers, along with the firmware utilized as well. It can do plenty of amazing operations like scanning a burnt media for readability errors, to ensure freshness of the backup and it can also find out the specifics of the concerned media, along with the speed of the supported writer.

VSO-Inspector is capable of listing out even minute details like those of Region, Firmware version, Buffer size, region code, read modes, write modes and so on. Pertaining to the media, it can assess the media type, its capacity, ID, number of layers as well as the supported speeds.

It has certain features relevant to media analysis such as sector reading, definition of the area to check, definition of the read direction due to the fact that medias are mostly weak at the end of the burning zone, starting from the end which is a good idea for a quick quality indication.

For a really good burning program with lots of features, I recommend CDBurnerXP. Easy to use and has a small footprint. ImgBurn I use exclusively for burning ISO images because of its high reliability, verification features and tons of tweaks.

You can get CDBurnerXP here: http://www.cdburnerxp.se/

CDBurnerXP is a free application to burn CDs and DVDs, including Blu-Ray and HD-DVDs. It also includes the feature to burn and create ISOs, as well as a multilanguage interface. Everyone, even companies, can use it for free. It does not include adware or similar malicious components.



Key Features

• burn all kinds of discs
• audio-CDs with or without gaps between tracks
• burn and create ISO files
• data verification after burning process
• create bootable discs
• multi-language interface
• bin/nrg → ISO converter, simple cover printing and much more!
• Operating Systems: Windows 2000/XP/2003 Server/Vista/2008/Win7 (x86 / x64)

Download now!

Further info: Compatible drives list - Detailed list of features - Online helpfile

 

[Mychael]

Infrarecorder is also another free program and can also do iso.

 

[beamish]

Have used the free version of "FinalBurner".
With Windows7, Vista, XP the 32bit and 64bit (home premium./sp3) versions.
Several (different mfg.), internal and external CD/DVD drives.
I do not install the burner software.that comes with the drives.
I purchase the least expensive CD and DVD disc.+ or-.
Burned over 1000 video DVDs and over 500 music Cd's.
To date no problem encountered.
Link:http://www.protectedsoft.com/download.php
For .iso, I use Iso-burner.exe (free standing) meaning used without installation.
Place .iso files in same folder and run the utility, simple and fast.

 

[catilley1092]

Cat - first of all your burner is made by the Toshiba Samsung Storage Corporation partnership, that's where the "TSST" comes from. My burner is a Samsung and has the same prefix.

You might want to check and see if a firmware update will help the burner's reliability. Use the VSO tool listed below to check the firmware version and there's even a handy little "Check for Firmware Update" button on the GUI.

The + - is designating that it can burn both DVD+R and DVD-R discs. DVD+R is the newer of the two formats. So if possible, stick with that format. The DVD-R is the old original format and is compatible with older DVD home players from the late '90's and '00's

CDs are only CD-R format.

Spending $12.99 for a 100ct. pack of CDs or DVDs is NOT a good idea. These are probably generic disks or private labeled. STAY AWAY from cheap CDs and DVDs because all you'll get is problems burning them plus their longevity is much less than name brand discs.

I use only JVC (formerly Taiyo Yuden), Verbatim, Phillips or Falcon. Memorex and TDK are good brands too. Using cheap house brands or private label is not worth the money saved.

100ct. packs of DVDs, single-layer should run around $30-35 for high quality discs, regardless of whether they're DVD-R or DVD+R. 100ct. packs of CD-R should run about $20. These are prices for the silver side discs not the printable type.

Use this free handy application called: VSO Inspector v2.1.0.4 It will tell you tons of info about your burner, its firmware, the original CD or DVD disc manufacturer, etc.

Download load it at: http://vso-inspector.software.informer.com/

For a really good burning program with lots of features, I recommend CDBurnerXP. Easy to use and has a small footprint. ImgBurn I use exclusively for burning ISO images because of its high reliability, verification features and tons of tweaks.

You can get CDBurnerXP here: http://www.cdburnerxp.se/

CDBurnerXP is a free application to burn CDs and DVDs, including Blu-Ray and HD-DVDs. It also includes the feature to burn and create ISOs, as well as a multilanguage interface. Everyone, even companies, can use it for free. It does not include adware or similar malicious components.



Key Features

• burn all kinds of discs
• audio-CDs with or without gaps between tracks
• burn and create ISO files
• data verification after burning process
• create bootable discs
• multi-language interface
• bin/nrg → ISO converter, simple cover printing and much more!
• Operating Systems: Windows 2000/XP/2003 Server/Vista/2008/Win7 (x86 / x64)

Download now!

Further info: Compatible drives list - Detailed list of features - Online helpfile

Normally, I buy Sony or Memorex CD & DVD discs, I still do for important things, as for burning TechNet downloads, or any project that I expect to keep.

But I bought these because I try out a lot of versions of Linux, as well as make copies of them for others to use. These discs (Magnavox), are normally $34.99 for the DVD's, and $24.99 for the CD's. Many of them are used once and hits the trash can. Why pay for expensive discs that you throw away frequently? If I do run into something good, I keep a stock of Sony discs on hand for. I don't throw these away.

On average, a dozen or so discs hits the trash can every week. The price that I pay for the Sony brand is too expensive for me to use like that.

Cat

 

[Mychael]

I get my cd's from computer markets. some are branded some not. Usually a pack of 50-100 between $12-$20. most seem pretty good but can't comment on their longevity but they burn fine.

 

[TrainableMan]

I have over 500 DVDs and I would say 95%+ are Memorex DVD-R. I always bought -R myself because they burned with a little extra heading something or other, I don't remember anymore. But for Dual Layer I bought +R because that's all I could find. According to an article I read "As of June 2006, there is no physical difference between a DVD-R/-RW disc and a DVD+R/+RW disc." so then why do they still sell them as -R or +R discs - makes me wonder; and obviously you have problems with one format and not the other so that seems to say there is, in fact, some difference somewhere.

Your burner has to support +R or -R formats, some support both. If you have a DVD player that you play them in after burned then you may want to make sure it supports the format you output, as some of those may not support both either.

I have always read name-brand is the way to go with DVDs/CDs and for the most part I stick to that but even still I have had a couple of my name-brand Memorex go bad. The one I was able to recover with ISObuster but the other I couldn't. I have also had a few burned incorrectly - to avoid this always check the verify box; it takes longer so I don't always use it but I have sometimes paid for not doing it. It's Murphy's law that if you have verify on it will always be correct but if you turn it off you will get a few mistakes

 

[Nibiru2012]

I try to use only DVD+R discs only for the reasons stated below.

From Wikipedia:

In 2002 a new format was developed called DVD+R (or "plus" R). Created by a coalition called the DVD+RW Alliance, this format uses a number of improved technologies that, while generally unnoticeable to the end user, make a more reliable technology. One example is the ADIP (ADdress In Pregroove) system of tracking and speed control used by DVD+R being less susceptible to interference and error than the LPP (Land Pre Pit) system used by DVD-R, which makes the ADIP system more accurate at higher speeds. In addition, DVD+R(W) has a more robust error management system than DVD-R(W), allowing for more accurate burning to media independent of the quality of the media. Additional session linking methods are more accurate with DVD+R(W) versus DVD-R(W), resulting in fewer damaged or unusable discs due to buffer under-run and multi-session disks with fewer PI/PO errors.[2]

This new format, among other things, resulted in DVD-R being unofficially referred to as DVD "minus" R (though in countries where British English is dominant, the term "minus R" was already common; not just in contrast to "plus R")[3]. DVD-R and DVD+R technologies are not directly compatible, which created a format war in the DVD technology industry.

To reconcile the two competing formats, manufacturers created hybrid drives that could read both – most hybrid drives that handle both formats are labeled DVD±R and Super Multi (which includes DVD-RAM support) and are very popular.

As of 2006, the market for recordable DVD technology shows little sign of settling down in favour of either the plus or dash formats, which is mostly the result of the increasing numbers of dual-format devices that can record to both formats; it has become very difficult to find new devices that can only record to one of the formats. However, because the DVD-R format has been in use since 1997, it has had a five-year lead on DVD+R. As such, older or cheaper DVD players (up to 2004 vintage) are more likely to favour the DVD-R standard exclusively[4].

 

[Mychael]

I always burn at the lower speed settings anyway. The more important the burn ,the slower I set it.